Saturday 5 March 2022

Basque country

We'd heard so much about Bayonne and the Basque country ... so we decided to go there.

With the ID3 at full charge, we drove south, past Mont de Marsan and Dax. We reached Bayonne after two-and-a-half-hours and still had another hundred or so kilometres in the battery.

We stayed at a hotel by the Pont Saint-Esprit, in a room with an angled view of the river. About a hundred metres down the road, quay-side, was a charging station for the car.

We set off on foot to explore the town ... and what a charming town it is!

Situated on two rivers, the Adour and the Nive, Bayonne has stunning buildings and an old city full of medieval character.




We walked the narrow, cobble-stone streets of Grand Bayonne, along the attractive Rue Port-Neuf, with its interesting shops and restaurants.




Bayonne is noted for ham and chocolate, so needless to say we indulged in both!






While Cliona did some window-shopping in the historical centre of town, I took an outdoor table at the Cafe Central, by the river. Under the early Spring sun, with a pint of beer, I sat and watched the passing parade.

On the other side of an ancient stone bridge, across the Nive, stood a row of four and five-story terrace houses adorned with coloured shutters, of burgundy, blue, soft greens and greys.

In the square, carefree children played and grown-ups walked their dogs.

It was one of those sublime, relaxing, French-café moments that make living in this country such a joy.






We dined that evening in Petit Bayonne at a restaurant called Goxoki. Here we enjoyed, without doubt, the most memorable meal since arriving in France more than five years ago.




Every course was bliss. For the entrée we chose scallops and veal, for mains we chose lamb and monkfish, and for dessert the crepes and chocolate.  

The wine, Cliona's choice, was superb ... a French Catalan masterpiece.









We strolled home, across the elegant Pont Saint-Esprit, with the lights of the grand Haussmannien buildings reflected in the waters of the Adour.






6 comments:

  1. LOL! Tony, you have the last word! An interesting Anglo-French or Franco-British typo. You still haven’t forgotten your native language, have you?
    I tried my best to understand the menu’s gobbeldygook, as we say here, and I take your word the food was delicious. I, personnaly, would have had the sweetbread.
    If you go back to Pays basque, which I’m sure you would, try piperade and poulet basque. I used to cook the latter, because the ingredients are easy to get and it is delicious. You have poulets, but thy’re not basques yet!
    Now that you have an endless supply of eggs, I wonder if there is such a thing as omelette basque? The jambon de Bayonne is delish and would fit in.

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    1. https://everydayfrenchchef.com/recipes/omelets-and-souffles/omelette-basquaise/

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    2. Le soufflé inratable de la mère de Jacques Pépin who worked with Julia Child. The latter brought cuisine to the United States!
      https://food52.com/recipes/82304-cheese-souffle-recipe

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    3. Ah Charles-Henry, your reaction is a little enigmatic. Can you enlighten me as to my Anglo-French typo?! And thanks for the recipes, which I will try. We are now getting four to five eggs a day ... thanks to those girls! The menu at Goxoki was stunning, the food sensational.

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    4. Hi Tony. The Anglo-French typo is the last word of your post (and in another place too) : Ardour! The name of that river is Adour.
      In French, whenever a rivière flows into the sea it is called a fleuve. So, l’Adour is a fleuve since it flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

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    5. Oh yes, you are so right and, as usual, eagle-eyed! Adour it is ...

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