It didn't happen last year because of Covid restrictions, and this year inclement weather dampened the celebrations.
But it was still an indulgent affair.
In fact, despite the smaller crowds and fewer producers, it was one of the most enjoyable festivals we've attended in our five years in France ... it seemed to be as much about the spirit du pays gascon (of the Gascon people) as the spirit of its famous liqueur.
We arrived after lunch on Saturday, having briefly lingered at a fabulous winery called Domaine de Pellehaut, about 15 minutes north of Lasbatide-d'Armagnac.
After security staff checked our pass sanitaires (vaccination certificates), we bought two tasting glasses and walked somewhat awestruck into Place Royale.
We tried new armagnacs and old armagnacs, the latter being smoother but much more expensive.
Local potentates, some in medieval gowns, many wearing Gascon berets, assembled on the church's portal to officially open the festival ... in a scene that looked like a renaissance painting.
One of the gathered throng told me this was an ancient practice to reduce the alcohol content and produce a gloriously fruity drink of about 15 percent . This compares to the usual armagnac level of 40+ percent.
The flamer of armagnac then scooped up the liquid into a large jug and, leaning forward to the crowd, poured it generously into people's tasting glasses.
It was divine.
The famous English cartoonist, Perry Taylor, who made Gascony his home in 2004, was on hand to sell and sign copies of his work.
He is well-known as an observer and recorder of quirky French life, and draws in an attractive and commercially successful style.
He seemed absolutely in his element, enjoying the atmosphere, surrounded by his art and with a bottomless tasting glass in his hand.
When we got home, we unpacked our purchases. As well as armagnac, we had bought floc, wine and champagne. We won't be cold this winter!
Mr. Taylor’s smile, with an empty glass, is worth a thousand words!
ReplyDeleteLove Perry Taylor's work. Have given his books as gifts to visitors. You didn't buy any cheese ?
ReplyDeleteUm, no. We were too busy buying grog! Though I did buy a salami, as long as my arm.
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ReplyDeleteJe vois que les hommes et les femmes portent le béret basque! And now for your English-speaking readers, I see that men and women wear the béret basque!
ReplyDeleteYes, they are very becoming ... I should've bought one!
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