Armagnac Festival

The annual armagnac en fête at Labastide-d'Armagnac in the Landes department is held over the last weekend in October. 

It didn't happen last year because of Covid restrictions, and this year inclement weather dampened the celebrations. But it was still an indulgent affair. 

In fact, despite the smaller crowds and fewer producers, it was one of the most enjoyable festivals we've attended in our five years in France ... it seemed to be as much about the spirit du pays gascon (of the Gascon people) as the spirit of its famous liqueur.

We arrived after lunch on Saturday, having briefly lingered at a fabulous winery called Domaine de Pellehaut, about 15 minutes north of Lasbatide-d'Armagnac.

 

After security staff checked our pass sanitaires (vaccination certificates), we bought two tasting glasses and walked somewhat awestruck into Place Royale. 

More than two dozen local producers had stalls around the perimeter of the 13th century town square. We strolled and we looked and we considered. We had not a clue which of the armagnacs was best, we chose mainly on the look of the bottle ... and the seller! 

We tried new armagnacs and old armagnacs, the latter being smoother but much more expensive.

 

But it wasn't just about armagnac; producers of wine, cheese, oysters, charcuterie, pastries, confectionery and much more were on hand with generous samples to savour.

 

Local potentates, some in medieval gowns, many wearing Gascon berets, assembled on the church's portal to officially open the festival ... in a scene that looked like a renaissance painting.

We noticed a large crowd had gathered around a man putting a flaming torch to a huge bucket of armagnac, into which copious amounts of lemon and orange peel and sugar had been added. 

One of the gathered throng told me this was an ancient practice to reduce the alcohol content and produce a gloriously fruity drink of about 15 percent . This compares to the usual armagnac level of 40+ percent. 

 The flamer of armagnac then scooped up the liquid into a large jug and, leaning forward to the crowd, poured it generously into people's tasting glasses. It was divine.

The famous English cartoonist, Perry Taylor, who made Gascony his home in 2004, was on hand to sell and sign copies of his work.

He is well-known as an observer and recorder of quirky French life, and draws in an attractive and commercially successful style.

He seemed absolutely in his element, enjoying the atmosphere, surrounded by his art and with a bottomless tasting glass in his hand.

When we got home, we unpacked our purchases. As well as armagnac, we had bought floc, wine and champagne. We won't be cold this winter!

 

We will definitely be heading back to Labastide d'Armagnac  next year.